INTRODUCTION:

Welcome to BobKat's Lair ®

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A lair is a home; A castle; A burrow; A haven; a place where one should feel safe. To ensure our safety especially in one's lair, we have laws. And some laws cause more harm than good!

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Check out my aquarium and feed the fish; check out my post(s), my favorite media list and the many links to websites that promote what I feel is important.

Time for the awakening...

That is what my goal is here... to present topics which highlight the plight of people. Why, 2000 years after Caesar Augustus, are we still a people being hurt? With all our advancements in technology, medicine, communications, why are we a people still being hurt? Human nature hasn't changed much, but that doesn't mean it isn't time now for that to happen, and it is undoubtedly happening - hard to see however. This blog is part of that change and a witness to it.

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May 08, 2014

REBUILDING THE ENGINE IN A 2004 SUBARU OUTBACK - TECHNICIAN'S GUIDE - Part Two

Well it's done; the engine rebuild. I didn't mess with the pistons, they were fine from what I saw. Yesterday I worked from 10 AM to 7 PM.

I began by uncovering the timing belt. Sorry no new pictures, to busy working;  but seen here in the following picture you need to remove the harmonic balancer, #1 here. Ah, there's a bit more involved; the harmonic has the timing grove on it. You need to rotate the engine clock-wise until the grove lines up with top-dead-center.There are two engine rotations for T-D-C. One rotation would put cylinder #1 at low exhaust. That is not what you want. The #1 cylinder has to be at the max compression stroke, that's the other rotation. 180 degrees apart. The book suggests a cylinder pressure gauge. I don't have one. So I rely on an older trick. I find a dowel, and seat it into cylinder #1. I mark the dowel, rotate the engine to T-D-C. When the dowel is farthest out, that's the max compression. Leave the harminic pointed at T-D-C on the gauge in place on the plastic cover.


You've done that - or I have. I use a permanent white marker to document points of alignment. White dots everywhere. An excellent decision. Now, using an electric impact gun, and an old belt to stabilize the harmonic, I run the impact gun counter-clockwise on the bolt in the center to loosen it.

I then remove the many bolts holding the plastic cover in place, and moving a few odds and ends out of the way.

I find replacing bolts loosely in places the aren't in the way, and using separate cans for bolts I remove make things easier.

I recommend having a stool like a milk-crate to sit on, and a table for your tools.

With the plastic cover removed the timing belt, water-pump and many bearings and gear are revealed. Again, using a white permanent marker I make alignment marks, at least two. I do this to the crankshaft gear (that was connected to the harmonic balancer) to denote T-D-C, as well as the two opposite camshaft gears, marking their locations prior to removing the timing belt. Failure to do this will create a mess. The timing belt comes off easy, but then the camshafts relax a half to a full inch. To be able to install the new belt everything must line up. But that comes last.

Subaru's have a interference engine. Simply put it's different with a head on each side, rather than one on top, and if the timing belt breaks it doesn't destroy the engine.

Removing the first head, closest to the 1 in the image above wasn't real difficult. Loosening the 6 head-bolts was the challenge. Then I partially unbolted the intake manifold, and removed the head. The book says you must remove the camshaft and lifters also - a major pain in the ass. I saw no need to do that as the head-bolts are right there, and it worked out well.

With the head removed I could examine and admire it. I wasn't going to have the heads resurfaced - which is recommended, rather I carefully used a sharp and stiff scrapper to try and get as much remaining gasket free, using very fine steel wool in a few places. The less the better.

The gasket(s) that came off were ruined, and I could tell it wasn't from removing them. Fortunately there was no indication of anti-freeze in the pistons, which you can see with the head removed. The replacement head-gaskets I bought are Fel-Pro Perma-Torque. They are two steel sheets with a special surface. The old gasket was a single sheet of steel with a gasket type finish and that is what had failed.

Finally able to insert new gaskets for both the head and the head-intake manifold, and it's down to torquing 6 new bolts. Now the torquing sequence is new. I'm old school where you torque to a specific ft-pounds in a special pattern. But this Subaru, you use a torque wrench to tighten to an initial torque, then back off 180 degrees, then another 180 degrees, the torque two center bolts to this minor level, and the other 4 to half that. The use a angle torque tool (something completely new to me) to continue torquing first 80 - 90 degrees, then finish with an additional 80 - 90 degrees.

Wow, hope the first head I worked on is okay... it was a learning experience. I did much better with the other head.

Oil pan gasket now replaced also... and thanks to my fore-thought the timing belt is back on and if not for those position dots, the timing belt would have been a major head-ache. New water-pump installed, cover back on, harmonic reconnected - torqued using the impact gun in clock-wise. Ready to swap between engine stand to engine hoist, install new clutch, and reattach engine to transmission.

Oh yeah, and replace the drive-shaft.

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